Archive for Feature articles

An interview with Steve Baughman | Feature Article

An interview with Steve Baughman | Feature Article


We present and highly recommend viewing the pdf version of this article first as it contains the most up to date information and more photos.
The HTML version can be viewed below in it’s original, unaltered form.

Steve Baughman is a renown Celtic fingerstyle performer and has recorded with Rounder Records and Solid Air Records and has toured and taught widely in the United States, Canada, Europe and Asia. His new album, Life in Prism, an album of fingerstyle solos and duets, is set to be released in mid-July 2010.

I caught up with him to talk shop about that style we call Celtic guitar…

TT – Thanks for talking to us Steve, I was wondering if you could share with us what drew you to celtic music?

SB-  My interest in Celtic music began in earnest in graduate school when my then girlfriend returned from the Orkney Islands with a bunch of LPs of artists she had just seen at the Orkney Folk Festival. That was 1986 or so. I’ve been hooked since.


TT- How would you define celtic music?

SB- Personally, I wouldn’t define it, and I agree with Duck Baker that it is a terribly misused term. Also, there has been such an explosion of fusion music lately that most categories these days have seriously blurred edges. I’m not sure I’d even say, to paraphrase Justice Potter Stewart on pornography, “I know it when I hear it.” The boundaries are even more blurred than that. I suppose that most of the music played by the old dead people of Celtic descent counts as Celtic. I might say generally that the music of Ireland, Scotland, Brittany and parts of Galicia is Celtic music. That may not be very helpful, but it’s a start. More importantly, I think that it does not matter how one construes or defines the term. If you like what you hear, the label is not really all that important. So sorry to offer such an unsatisfying reply to a very good question.


TT- Is there anything which defines an instrument as suitable for Celtic music?

SB- If it feels good, do it. It’s totally subjective, like preferring vanilla over peach. Having said that, I must confess that certain instruments do not feel good to me in what I hear as Celtic music. Harmonica, for instance, or brass instruments strike me as a bit of forced fusion. But that is a totally subjective thing that probably stems from me listening for decades now to fiddle, pipes, flutes and harps playing this music. The switch to other instruments outside the tradition tends to jars me. Of course, fingerstyle guitar is outside the tradition, but somewhat approximates the sound of the harp so the shift is not as dramatic as it is with, say, a harmonica.


TT- In your opinion, are there any definite albums and artists for Celtic fingerstyle?

SB- I like the guitar players who have marinated themselves in the traditional music and are therefore able to convey some of that essence and richness on the guitar. Most people who record Celtic fingerstyle tunes have not done this, and their music lacks a certain depth for me. I would like to see the musical tradition respected more, and not treated as something to be approached casually. Just because you play guitar does not mean the world benefits from you recording Celtic pieces on your instrument. One owes the music a bit more awe than that. I particularly dislike renditions of Celtic tunes played by classical guitarists. The music usually strikes me as stiff and artificial, even though the players blow me away with their chops. But again, that’s just me.

Now, on a positive note, there are certain essential names in the field. Tony McManus is a god of the genre, he’s one of the few who can pull off jigs and reels with ease. El McMeen and Robin Bullock are very different from Tony, somewhat mellow and stately, even in their upbeat tunes, and I love their playing also. I recently did a gig with Duck Baker and got to hear him very close up. He’s a unique stylist and great player. A new kid on the block, with a brand new CD out, is Anton Emery, who plays the slower harp tunes as well as the faster fiddle tunes very nicely. One of my favorites is the relatively unknown Alec Stone Sweet, a genius with tone and arrangement. There are a few other names I could mention, but I’ll stop there.


TT- So would it be fair to say that the feel of the music is more important in defining it than geography?

SB- Feeling is everything. Music is good if “it works.” If it gives you the feeling you want it is good music.


TT- Is there any advice you might give someone looking to seriously play Celtic fingerstyle?

SB- I think I’d say the same thing to people wanting to play Jazz, Classical, Madagascar fingerstyle or slack key. Listen to and love the traditional music. Once it’s in your soul, play it. Guitarists should be musicians first, and guitarists second. We use our instruments to give voice to a tradition that we have grown to love and that we have somewhat internalised. Skip that stage and your music will probably suffer.


TT- Technique wise do you feel there are certain areas which are unique to or used more in Celtic fingerstyle?

SB- I don’t really know. Most classically trained right hands to not work well, but that is probably due to the hand owner, not to the hand technique. As I noted earlier, I was watching Duck Baker a few weeks ago on stage with me. His right hand is about as unorthodox as can be, but his feel is wonderful. Same for Tom Long, a guitarist in Southern California. I think the same way about guitarist right hands as I do about fiddle bowing. One can get quite doctrinaire about the “right” way to do it, but in the end what comes out is all that is important (assuming, of course, that you’re not hurting yourself.)

 

TT- thanks for taking this time to speak to us, Steve. Before we go are there any exciting projects you have on the horizon you’d like to share with us?

SB- My new solo guitar CD, Life in Prism is at the manufacturer and will be ready on CDBaby.com and elsewhere by August of 2010. I am also working on posting some free clawhammer guitar lessons on YouTube thru my lesson company RhythmStrummer.com. I plan to do a banjo DVD next year with a Zen monk. We’ll call it Zen Banjo and we’ll emphasize the meditative aspect of old time banjo playing.

Life is good, music is exciting, and I hope all your readers experience the same feeling early and often. Thanks for having me.

PS: Check out Steve’s new album by clicking on the album art below:


Check out Steve Baughman on CDbaby
!

 



©2009 Terence Tan.
Pictures:
Alberico guitars courtesy of Steve Baughman
© individuals 2010
Old Celtic Cross by Petr Kratochvil

Any infringement of copyright or errors is entirely unintentional- although we try very hard not to make them. Any guitars represented remain property of their current owners. Any issues should be address to: writers@guitarbench.com. We will attempt to resolve these issues quickly.

TT – Thanks for talking to us Steve, I was wondering if you could share with us what drew you to celtic music?

SB- I grew up listening to Harry Belafonte, and the transition was therefore very natural.  Just kidding.  I did, and do, love Harry, but my interest in Celtic music began in earnest in graduate school when my then girlfriend returned from the Orkney Islands with a bunch of LPs of artists she had just seen at the Orkney Folk Festival.  That was 1986 or so.  I’ve been hooked since.

TT- How would you define celtic music?

SB- Personally, I wouldn’t define it, and I agree with Duck Baker that it is a terribly misused term. Also, there has been such an explosion of fusion music lately that most categories these days have seriously blurred edges. I’m not sure I’d even say, to paraphrase Justice Potter Stewart on pornography, “I know it when I hear it.”  The boundaries are even more blurred than that.  I suppose that most of the music played by the old dead people of Celtic descent counts as Celtic.  I might say generally that the music of Ireland, Scotland, Brittany and parts of Galicia is Celtic music. That may not be helpful, but it’s a start.  More importantly, I think that it does not matter how one construes or defines the term.  If you like what you hear, the label is not really all that important.  So sorry to offer such an unsatisfying reply to a very good question.

TT- Is there anything which defines an instrument as suitable for Celtic music?

SB- If it feels good, do it. It’s totally subjective, like preferring vanilla over peach.  Having said that, I must confess that certain instruments do not feel good to me in what I hear as Celtic music.  Harmonica, for instance, or brass instruments strike me as a bit of forced fusion.  But that is a totally subjective thing that probably stems from me listening for decades now to fiddle, pipes, flutes and harps playing this music.  The switch to brass instruments jars me.

TT- In your opinion, are there any definite albums and artists for Celtic fingerstyle?

SB- I like the guitar players who have marinated themselves in the traditional music and are therefore able to convey some of that traditional essence and richness on the guitar. Most people who record Celtic fingerstyle tunes have not done this, and their music lacks a certain depth for me.  I would like to see the musical tradition respected more, and not treated as something to be approached casually.  Just because you play guitar does not mean the world benefits from you recording Celtic pieces on your instrument. One owes the music a bit more awe than that.  I particularly dislike renditions of Celtic tunes played by classical guitarists. The music usually strikes me as stiff and artificial, even though the players blow me away with their chops. But again, that’s just me.

Now, on a positive note, there are certain essential names in the field. Tony McManus is a god of the genre, he’s one of the few who can pull off jigs and reels with ease.  El McMeen and Robin Bullock are very different from Tony, somewhat mellow and stately, even in their upbeat tunes, and I love their playing also.  I recently did a gig with Duck Baker and got to hear him very close up. He’s a unique stylist and great player.  A new kid on the block, with a brand new CD out, is Anton Emery, who plays the slower harp tunes as well as the faster fiddle tunes very nicely.  One of my favorites is the relatively unknown Alec Stone Sweet, a genius with tone and arrangement. There are a few other names I could mention, but I’ll stop there.

TT- So would it be fair to say that the feel of the music is more important in defining it than geography?  Feeling is everything.  Music is good if “it works.”  If it gives you the feeling you want it is good music.

TT- Is there any advice you might give someone looking to seriously play Celtic fingerstyle?

SB- Listen to and love the music. Once it’s in your soul, play it.  And remember, guitarists should be musicians first, using our instruments to give voice to a wonderful tradition.  Oh, and also, don’t let all the serious stuff I’m saying prevent you from having fun.
TT- Technique wise do you feel there are certain areas which are unique to or used more in Celtic fingerstyle?  I don’t really know.  Most classically trained right hands to not work well, but that is probably due to the hand owner, not to the hand technique.  I was watching Duck Baker a few weeks ago on stage with me.  His right hand is about as unorthodox as can be, but his feel is wonderful.  Same for Tom Long, a guitarist in Southern California.  I think the same way about guitarist right hands as I do about fiddle bowing.  One can get quite doctrinaire about the “right” way to do it, but in the end what comes out is all that is important (assuming, of course, that you’re not hurting yourself.)

TT- thanks for taking this time to speak to us, Steve. Before we go are there any exciting projects you have on the horizon you’d like to share with us?

SB- My new solo guitar CD, Life in Prism is at the manufacturer and will be ready on CDBaby.com by August of 2010. I am also working on posting some free clawhammer guitar lessons on YouTube thru my lesson company RhythmStrummer.com.  I plan to do a banjo DVD next year with a Zen monk. We’ll call it Zen Banjo and we’ll emphasize the meditative aspect of old time banjo playing.

Life is good, music is exciting, and I hope all your readers experience that early and often. Thanks for having me.

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A celtic conversation with Nigel Forster | Feature Article

A celtic conversation with Nigel Forster | Feature Article



Nigel Forster is best known for being Stefan Sobell’s apprentice from 1988-1990 and from 1992-2003 but he’s gone solo and was been steadily building with his own distinct style and sensibilities. I’ve always known Nigel to focus on quality and sound and his instruments are exceedingly popular with the Celtic crowd. We’re very priviledged to steal Nidel away from his work to speak to him about his ‘celtic’ instruments.

Check out his full interview we did a while back here

Nigel Forster guitars

Nigel Forster guitars


TT: Thanks for taking the time to speak to us again, Nigel. It was a real the last time around. Let’s focus on Celtic instruments this time- you did your apprenticeship with Stefan Sobell who builds instruments which are in the minds of many guitarists and mandolin players well suited to celtic style playing- would you agree with this?

NF: Without a doubt, the majority of our customers played Celtic music. Not all, but the majority. For many years it was the Cittern and Bouzouki part of the business which was the largest, but in the early 90′s with the help of Martin Simpson, we began to build a lot more guitars.
These days my business is about 60/40 – guitars/Bouzouki family, and around 80/20 Celtic/non Celtic focused customers.



TT: What characteristics do you feel Celtic players look for and find in your guitars and bouzoukis?

NF: All manner of things – sound is the main one. What I produce does not sound American, it sounds very British. I read years ago that instruments sound like where they come from, and I have to agree – Matin sounds American, Lowden sounds Irish, Ramirez sounds Spanish, Hauser speaks spanish but with a German accent! So let’s say my guitars sound British but with a Geordie accent!

The sound my stuff tends to have is a rare mix-clarity And warmth, two factors with usually cancel each other out, but having the two can useful for Celtic music where individual voices can be lost in a  session or on stage.

Another aspect is understanding the set ups that Celtic music demands. Most Celtic style guitar players go for a wider nut and string spacing to allow for both solo fingerstlye and percussive pick playing, while bouzouki players have a higher than normal action coupled with a slightly different approach to neck relief to allow them to play with power in noisy sessions. Most Celtic players use a capo too, so this must be taken into consideration during the set up.

I always ask what the main tuning is the player will use. DADGAD requires a slightly sweetened compensation, as players tend to use a limited number of chord shapes and utilise the capo a lot – we can get really good fifths and thirds as apposed to equal temperament (which has decent fifths and poor thirds), but if a player changes tunings all the time I go for perfect equal temperament. It’s the only compromise.

I think aesthetics come into it too. Now I’m not a fan of all that Celtic knot stuff on my instruments, I find it all a bit kitch and can cheapen the look of things, but my work has a simplicity to it that seems to suits the music.

The Bouzouki and Guitar Bouzouki market is a funny one. The general standard of stuff out there is pretty low in comparison to the guitar market, and for decades the top of the range has been Sobell, so I was very lucky to have cut my teeth making them. It took me some time to come up with something DIFFERENT. So I’ve experimented with materials, arching of the tops, thicknessing and bracing and for the time being I’m pretty settled on my current designs. The treble is broad and full and the bass dark, and they tend to be rather loud, which is no bad thing.


TT: And is there a certain tonewood combinations which is better suited to Celtic styles? And would this be the same for guitars as the bozoukis?

NF: Hard to say really. Folk love to think there is a magic combination of timbers but the reality is the design is the biggest factor – the shape of the soundboard, the thickness and the bracing. After that it is possible to achieve tonal variations by using different timbers. I depends what folk want, but really the pecking order for timbers is pretty much the same as any other type of steel string instrument. No, it is the design which is crucial – understanding what is to be done and how to do it.

My current range seems to be taking two forms these days, the work which is a development of what I did with Sobell and the stuff I’ve been working on for a while which is based on my development of the old Howe Orme design. There is quite a bit in common between the two approaches, and a few differences too. Both ways of working suit Celtic music very well.

TT: Thanks Nigel, before we finish maybe you could give any celtic players out there a bit of advice if they’re shopping around for an instrument to suit and if you were design your ultimate Celtic guitar and bouzouki, what would they be like?

NF: This is where talking to a maker comes in handy to pin down exacty want you want. By understanding how someone plays, what tunings they use and what situations the instrument will be used in it is possible to come up with the ideal combination for that person.

But what would I have? Well, perhaps two guitars – one for gigs and recording and another for sessions. A hump top (the Howe Orme inpired design) Model S for sessions, as they are loud guitars. Perhaps with laminated braces for that extra growl, a short scale combined with a slightly higher action to make it easy to play percussivly without buzz and to soften the bass. Materials?Indian Rosewood and Italian Spruce, or maybe Osage Orange and Italian Spruce, either way I would want it to be an instrument I was happy to take to the pub. First class, but not so valuable I couldn’t relax.

The other one would be a top of the range job. A 12 fret cutaway Rio and German Spruce Model C with full binding, laminated braces, Gotoh 510′s, and perhaps a 660mm scale so the bass notes were as clear as a bell when using dropped tunings. The set up would be low for fingerpicking and intonated for DADGAD. The perfect recording guitar. And one for the CD cover!

The perfect Bouzouki? A Redwood top with Camatillo or Cocobolo or Panamanian Rosewood sides, with short scale and a set up for session playing. Redwood makes a SUPERB ‘zouk. I’ll have to try it on a guitar soon. I’ve plenty of it.

The main advice I would give folk is to try and work out exactly what they want. Then discuss it with the maker to see what they can come up with. It’s not uncommon for folk to want everything in one instrument – a one they can play hard in noisy sessions, that they can then easily fingerpick, that sound like Rio but costs the same as Indian, and many of these things just aint possible. So it’s a matter of discussion to work out the best compromise for them. I really enjoy that part – working out what folk want, and negotiating between the ideal and the possible.










©2009 Terence Tan.
Pictures:
Alberico guitars courtesy of Nigel Forster
© individuals 2010
Old Celtic Cross by Petr Kratochvil

Any infringement of copyright or errors is entirely unintentional- although we try very hard not to make them. Any guitars represented remain property of their current owners. Any issues should be address to: writers@guitarbench.com. We will attempt to resolve these issues quickly.

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Celtic Guitar Masterclass | O’Carolan’s Receipt


We present and highly recommend viewing the pdf version of this article first as it contains the most up to date information and more photos.
The HTML version can be viewed below in it’s original, unaltered form.

Welcome to the first installment of the Celtic Guitar Masterclass here at Guitarbench.com  I will be writing a series of articles looking at the various techniques and approaches used when arranging celtic music for the guitar.  I will be using a variety of pieces as examples, ranging from beginner to more advanced level.In this lesson we will look at the harp tune O’Carolan’s Receipt, and some of the techniques that go into it.

Celtic harp tunes can make great arranging material for guitar.  The melodies are generally simpler and less notey than the fast dance tunes, and their is plenty of room for creative harmony and interpretation.  Harp tunes are also usually in guitar friendly keys, so transposing is not an issue.

For this little lesson you will want to download the PDF examples, which contains TAB/Notation to everything we are talking about, as well as the entire piece
Techniques
O’Carolan’s Receipt

 

Techniques

I like to use harp tunes as a vehicle for getting folks familiar with harp style, or cross string playing.  Basically what this means is instead of playing a melody linearly across one or two strings, you play it on as many consecutive strings as possible, so the notes ring out and overlap into each other. Check out the linear vs melodic example in the PDF, i think the melodic one, with the notes starting higher up the neck on the third string, sound much warmer and prettier.

I would not neccessarily all the time on every passage, there are times when you don’t want a flowing sound.  But its a good technique to have in your bag, its just a matter of finding where the passages lie on the guitar and in whatever tuning you use.

There are a few important right hand techniques that will make these celtic tunes flow alot easier on guitar. I draw from basic classical guitar practice for most of these. I think being able to alternate Index and Middle finger in the right hand when playing scales in important.  Check out the PDF example, and try to play the G and C scales alternating index and middle finger on the right hand.

In celtic music the main emphasis is on the melody, usually with a simple bass line and perhaps a third inner voice at times.  Take a look at the PDF Melody with Simple Bassline example.  Most of the time you are going to be playing the melody and bass note with a “pinch” using some combination of the fingers and thumb.  Occasionally a bass note might be played on the off beat.  To me it is a bit simpler than other forms of solo guitar music, where we are often juggling a melody, bass line, and middle voice all at once.

I have also notated a few appreggio exercises to develop finger independence in the right hand.  These are important for both harp style and linear playing, as well as developing overall good technique you can apply to any style of fingerpicking guitar. Be sure to follow the indicated right hand fingerings, P for thumb, I for index, M for middle, and A for the ring finger.

 

O’Carolan’s Receipt

So lets take a look at the tune itself.  The full name of the tune is O’Carolan’s Receipt for Drinking, i believe. I recorded it on my recent cd, Noone Lasses. It was written by Turloch O’Carolan, the great blind irish harper.  He wrote scores of well known tunes, many of which are still played today.  Known for his love of alchohol, legend has it that he drank to much one day, and this made him sick.  So his doctor takes him off the stuff, much to his dismay.  He goes to get a second opinion, and that doctor’s advice is to have a drink to make him feel better, at which O’Carolan was overjoyed.  So he wrote this tune.

This piece is divided into two parts, A and B, and in the usual tradition you repeat each part twice, so AA BB.  Playing the piece is pretty straight forward. To me the first two measures are an ideal example of melodic playing. Check out the example of playing the first two measures linearly vs melodically.  Either one is perfectly valid, but i prefer the flow of the melodic one.  There are numerous spots throughout the A and B part where I choose to go up the neck for a melody note rather than playing it on the first string.  I really like the tone of the 3rd string on my guitar higher up the neck.

One spot that may give folks some trouble is are measures 24-26 of the B part.  It requires a bit of juggling of the bass line and melody, so follow the left fingerings accordingly. Using the indicated barre will things alot easier.

One of the things that attracted me to arranging celtic music is the huge body of material available.  You can take a tune that is hundreds of years old, and give it a new and fresh voice on guitar.  I think the real fun comes with you take techniques you have learned and apply them to your own arrangements.  So find a tune you like and try applying some of the things you learned here.

Resources:
Antons Biography
Antons website
Noone Lasses
- Review
- Purchasing



©2008 Terence Tan.
Pictures courtesy of Anton Emery ©2010.

Any infringement of copyright or errors is entirely unintentional- although we try very hard not to make them. Any issues should be address to: writers@guitarbench.com. We will attempt to resolve these issues quickly.

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A Guitar for Celtic Music by Fabrizio Alberico | Feature Article

A Guitar for Celtic Music | Fabrizio Alberico



We’re very lucky to have Fabrizio Alberico guest write an article for us. I asked Fabrizio if he would write something on how he might approach designing a guitar specifically for Celtic players and he responded with a really superb piece on not only looking at the design aspects but also an indepth analysis of what players would expect from such a guitar and also how to go about getting one!

Fabrizio Alberico has been crafting stunning fingerstyle guitars in his native Canada for a number of years, building a reputation for flawless craftsmanship, elegant aesthetics and an ear for tone.

Check out his interview here


Fabrizio Alberico Guitars. Luthier Interview

There is arguably no more demanding test of a guitar’s quality than putting it in the hands of a skilled Celtic player, and following along with your imagination in tow.  A fine instrument in the right hands will evoke sounds that blur the lines between string and wind instruments, drawing forth bowed, plucked, and percussive sounds, and you might even  hear voices singing at times.

Celtic music is far older than the modern guitar, having been forged into our collective conscience over centuries by fiddle bows, pipe bellows, human breath passing over vocal chords and through flutes, all anchored by deep harp resonances.  And so the very definition of Celtic music has become inextricably linked with those and other traditional instruments, and the particular sound colorations imparted by them.

It’s only in the last few decades that the guitar has been used as a melodic solo instrument for playing Celtic music, and that evolution has happened hand-in-hand with the so-called “modern” sound that many contemporary guitarmakers have begun to define.  That sound, in a nutshell, consists of a balance that tips toward the upper midrange, “fat” trebles, clarity and focus across the entire frequency range, and an airy, complex tone.

I’m not sure I’ve ever heard Celtic music played on a pre-war Martin Dreadnought, but as wonderful as those instruments are for styles like Bluegrass, I would argue that they wouldn’t be capable of producing believable Celtic music.  I say “believable” because ultimately, any guitar playing Celtic music is to a great extent pretending to be another more traditional instrument, such as a fiddle, pipe, harp, or human voice.

The desire to imitate subtleties like changes in bowing or bellows direction, trills and drones, etc. has given rise to all kinds of new playing techniques, and those techniques put particular demands on guitars and their makers.

One such technique, the “harp effect,” consists of never playing consecutive notes of a phrase on the same string, allowing each note to ring out much like the open strings on a harp.  The technique can obviously be used on any guitar, but it’s much more believable and “authentic” on a guitar that manages to maintain consistency of tone between open and fretted notes, and affords seamless transitions between wound and unwound strings.  Other techniques are aimed at imitating the trills produced by pipes and flutes, which requires an uncommon responsiveness and clarity or else it sounds muddy.

That responsiveness is also required in order to replicate the vibrato of a fiddle or voice through bends.  Another challenge is replicating the drones from pipes, fiddles, or harps, which typically consists of low notes that need to be present and sustain for long periods of time at a consistent volume, all the while being in balance with the rest of the strings.  Frequently, moving bass lines will also be played over open ringing strings which again calls for a precise balance.

So what’s a luthier to do when faced with this seemingly impossible list of demands?  The short answer is to build the right thing, and build the thing right.  Building the right thing means starting with a a body size that makes sense, which for most purposes means an OM-sized instrument.  As usual I’ll attach an asterisk to that and say that the most important thing for any player of any style is to be physically comfortable with the instrument.  So by all means, if you’re small, a small guitar is probably a better fit, and if you’re big, a bigger guitar might be more comfortable for you.

A skilled luthier should be able to draw the sound you want out of just about any size body (within reason of course).  So, all things being equal, an OM-sized guitar is a good starting point, as it provides an optimal surface area to emphasize those upper-mids so crucial for that bell-like and balanced tone ideal for Celtic music.  Building the thing right means considering some design and material choices that will evoke the best sound and provide the best playability given how it will be played.

Most Celtic guitarists will use altered tunings to a great extent, typically DADGAD or Orkney (CGDGCD), both of which lower the tension on the guitar, which impacts both tone and playability.  And so sticking to a scale length that’s with the standard range of 25 3/8” to 25 5/8” makes the most sense.  I’m not one to fuss over that 1/4” range too much, because I’ve found that the variability in each luthier’s guitars more than makes up for the difference in tension.  And the math confirms my hands-on impressions.  In standard tuning, with D’Addario Light Gauge Phosphor Bronze strings, the difference between a 25 3/8” and 25 5/8” scale is 161.64 lbs. vs. 164.84 lbs.   That amounts to a 1.9% difference.

Top thickness, bracing, material choices, frets, body and bridge shapes, truss rod variability, builder karma, etc. all have way more impact than that 1.9%.  So go with what the builder finds works for him or her.  For me, 25 3/8” works great, and I routinely play in both DADGAD and Orkney tunings, as do my customers, without any complaints whatsoever.  I have found that depth of the body has quite an impact on the guitar’s ability to support lower notes, though, so I encourage you to consider that as a design feature.

Material choices are plentiful and can be confusing.  But as always, I encourage you to trust your luthier to extract the sound you want from the materials you find aesthetically pleasing, and hopefully he or she will be honest in telling you whether or not he or she can do it.  But all things being equal, some type of rosewood for back and sides is a sure bet.  The darkness in tone afforded by rosewood species is particularly desirable in producing those low drones, and when I know one of my customers is going to be playing Celtic music on their guitar, I select a set that is on the denser and stiffer end of the spectrum to broaden the tonal palette towards the upper mids and those fat trebles.

For me, Spruce is the only choice for tops to produce a quality sound for Celtic music.  You just can’t get the clarity and separation from Cedar, and although you get complexity from Cedar, it’s the warm and fuzzy kind.  What I go for is the crisp and clean kind, which I get most often from European or Sitka Spruce.  The difference between the two is that European is perhaps not as versatile when it comes to strumming, so for players that plan on doing both Celtic solo and accompaniment, Sitka may be the better option.

Celtic guitar also tends to incorporate lots of grace notes, be they hammer-ons or pull-offs, which puts demands on the design of the fingerboard and string spacings.  I always leave more room between the high string and the edge of the fingerboard to allow for pull-offs without actually pulling the string off the fingerboard.  And I highly recommend going with a string spacing of at least 1 3/4” at the nut, and 2 1/4” at the bridge to allow for those bends, and those right-hand trills.

Perhaps the last thing I would mention about design is to let your luthier know if you’re planning to keep the guitar in an altered tuning, because there are some intonation issues that can come up if you don’t.  A lowered tuning may call for some minor modifications at the bridge and/or nut.

Ultimately, a guitar designed for Celtic music is not much different than a quality guitar designed to produce that “modern” sound – ironic, given that Celtic music is anything but modern.  But as much as the guitar will continue to evolve and players will find new styles of playing, one should never lose sight of the fact that it’s just an instrument.  And as inspiring as it may be, it relies primarily on inspiration from the player to convey the music.  The feel is the music.

Resources:
-Alberico Interview
-Alberico Guitars
-Cocobolo Tone

I’ll tell you a story that illustrates this point.  A dozen years ago, I attended a workshop given by Pierre Bensusan one afternoon in Goderich Ontario of all places.  A keen student and huge fan of Pierre’s got there early and sat front row centre, eager to be up close and personal with her idol.  Of course, she brought along her Model O Lowden guitar, virtually identical to Pierre’s 1978 Lowden, which is both very deep (almost 5 “) and very wide (over 16 1/2”) at the lower bout.  Pierre gave a truly inspiring workshop that I will never forget, and we spent the first hour and a half with the guitars laid flat on our laps, strings facing down.  He led us through several exercises where we tapped out rhythms on the backs of our guitars, driving home the point that if you don’t feel the music in your heart first, it doesn’t matter what instrument you play; it will never make that ethereal journey to the listener.

When came time to actually put our guitars in playing position, the young lady in the front row looked up to Pierre with an expectant smile of recognition and approval.  Instead, Pierre had one look at her small frame holding that huge guitar and said, “oh my… that guitar is much too big for you!  Look at your arm struggling to get over the lower bout.  You will never be comfortable playing that guitar, and you will always struggle to get the music out of it.”  Sure, she was shattered, but it was an important testament to Pierre’s integrity, and a vital lesson for everyone in attendance.  As it turns out, Pierre has followed his own advice, and his new Signature Lowden features a 15 7/8” lower bout which is 4 23/32” deep, because he too was finding his O model guitar to be a bit lacking in the comfort department.







©2009 Terence Tan.
Pictures:
Alberico guitars courtesy of Fabrizio Alberico
© individuals 2010
Old Celtic Cross by Petr Kratochvil

Any infringement of copyright or errors is entirely unintentional- although we try very hard not to make them. Any guitars represented remain property of their current owners. Any issues should be address to: writers@guitarbench.com. We will attempt to resolve these issues quickly.

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Melvyn Hiscock interview. Feature Article

Melvyn Hiscock Interview. | 2010 | Feature Article



Melvyn Hiscock is a luthier and author of Make Your Own Electric Guitar- one of the first books I read when I was thinking of making my own guitars. It has been a reference text for many a luthier especially in England and having heard rumours that Melvyn was writing one for acoustic guitars, I managed to pry him away from his computer to speak of how he started writing these books and also the upcoming acoustic guitar book.

TT: Hi Melvyn, thanks for taking the time to speak to us, especially with your busy schedule. I was wondering how you got to writing a book on how to make your own electric guitar?

MB: It might a sound a little funny but I was just in the wrong place at the right time, or something like that. A guy in Portsmouth asked me how to make a guitar and I told him it was easy, you went to the library, got the book out and made one. He told me that he had tried the library and there was nothing so I told him that he had obviously not looked hard enough, and to go back and try again! He did and told me there really wasn’t anything available and he thought I should write one. I thought that was a stupid idea, but not long afterwards I met a guy who had written a book on mathematics and had made some money and I thought that perhaps it was not that stupid and idea after all!

I looked around at other books and spoke to a few people, who encouraged me, and I called a publishing company had told them I was thinking about doing it and that there was not much else on the market, and they accepted the book over the telephone! This was a bit of a problem as I had not written a word at that time and had no idea what I was doing. Fortunately, having no idea what I am doing has failed to stop me doing all sorts of fun things so I went to see them with a rough idea in about early 1984 and they gave me an advance and suddenly I was writing a book!

TT: So do you come from a crafts background yourself? How did you get started with guitars?

MH: No craft background really. I had started playing guitar when I was 13, my first was a Classical for my 13th birthday. I had a Saturday job when I was about 16 working in a store in Portsmouth that sold a bit of everything including guitars and I got my first electric about then, it was the body and neck of an old Futurama and some really nasty pickups. I think the scratchplate was a bit of formica. There was just no information about then, nothing in the magazines and no books. There was a magazine called Guitar that was primarily about Classical players and jazz that used to occasionally have some stuff about electric guitarists and they had an interview with a young guy in London that had built his own guitar with his dad and was in a group (it was ‘groups’ then, not ‘bands’!) called Queen. This was probably late 1972 and just before ‘Keep Yourself Alive’ came out. I was fascinated.

I also had a cheap Hendrix compilation album where there was a picture of him at the Isle of Wight with the black flying V and I was also into Wishbone Ash and so wanted a V. I thought that if this guy from London could make a guitar then I could to. The fact I had no skill, there was no information around, no sources of materials and most of my dad’s tools were blunt (dad was a plasterer not a woodworker) didn’t stop me so I started murdering a piece of Sapele I had scrounged off my dad. I failed, very convincingly to make a guitar!

By about 1975 there was a magazine out called ‘International Musician and Recording World’ and that had some more technical articles in and I had discovered an ad in the weekly paper called ‘Sounds’ for a company in Eastbourne that actually sold guitar parts. You could get Japanese copy stuff or genuine Gibson and Fender and the genuine stuff was very expensive. I had discovered a source of fretwire, there was a store in London called Centrepoint Music and they had a roll of fretwire! I used to buy it mail order. The young shop assistant there was a guy called Chris Bryant who now has a successful shop in Charing Cross road, he used to call me ‘Fretwire Melvyn’ as I was the only person who ever bought any! To think I have known him almost 35 years is scary.

By then I was doing stuff on my own guitars and those of friends and I had added a third pickup to my Shaftesbury Les Paul copy. I had also worked out how to keep dad’s tools a little sharper and I think I had discovered a book at school about making classical guitars that had the fret formula in. It was a case of picking up information, some of which was wrong, wherever you could find it.

By about 1975 I had made my first usable guitar and sold it to a friend. It was a through neck double cutaway based on half a Les Paul, flipped over to be symmetrical. It was around this time that more information was becoming available, Stephen Delft was writing in ‘International Musician’ and companies were just starting to make aftermarket spares, companies like Di Marzio and Mighty Mite were bringing things onto the market.

TT: Now that’s a name I haven’t heard in sometime- I remember when Stephen was selling guitars out of his flat before he left for New Zealand. Were the articles back then good enough to form a basis for building?

MH: Well, the actual “make a guitar” articles were some time in coming but there was some stuff about set ups and things. I think I had already made stuff by the time I saw the article on the whole guitar. There is a limit to how much information you get into a guitar magazine, the size of the articles is only ever going to be about 2-3000 words so you would need about two years to get a decent sized book and people would get bored waiting. I had found some other books, Hideo Kamimoto’s book on repairs was good, the Irving Sloan books on making acoustics were excellent and there was the Donald Brosnac book on making solids but I was of the opinion that there was not enough background information in them. Brosnac’s book had also suffered from some pretty poor photograph reproduction that made it hard to see what was happening. I knew when I did mine that the photographs had to be of good quality and it had to be a little more in-depth.

By the time I came to put pen to paper (it was all longhand to start with and those notes are still hanging around somewhere) I had worked alongside Roger Giffin for a bit and he was very, very generous in what he taught me. He is also a very, very silly man and we used to be helpless laughing sometimes but still get loads of work done. I have no idea how we managed that. Anybody who was anybody used Roger and so I got a brilliant grounding and got to see, and play, and work on some very interesting stuff. Most of what I know is down to Roger. However, I tell him that it is most of what I owe is down to him!


TT: What are your thoughts on the kits offered by lutherie companies? Do they make life easier? But deny the amateur builder certain invaluable experience?

MH: I think they are great, some are better quality than others. They can offer a good grounding and lead to making complete guitars. Even a simple kit of something like a Tele is going to teach you something. If someone is intent on making a guitar they will do it, making something a bit easier in the interim is only going to add to the final experience.

TT: I see, but I understand things like finish work may be quite suitable for “out sourcing”?

MH: Possibly, it depends what you want as a finish! Some people are happy to have it oiled and natural if they have made it. There is a lot of information about finishing, some of which is pretty good, that was not around years ago. There is more choice too, but If you really have to have a Candy Apple Red guitar then you are going to need to learn to spray well, use the right equipment and get the correct materials or, like you say, you pay someone else to do it!

TT: For the home builder with limited experience and equipment, which finish would you recommend? French Polish?

MH: Ha, no, to do French Polish properly takes years of experience. It depends on what you are after and what you are working on. If you are making an acoustic then you are probably better off using Tro-Oil instead of French Polish on a first guitar, it is a little more forgiving in my experience. If you are making electrics then a whole different set of circumstances apply. French Polish is not really ideal on a solid. Most people want colours, you can do Fender-style bodies in car spray and get a decent finish. If you want a three tone sunburst then you need spray equipment. For basic solid guitars oil and wax is a good way to go if you want the beauty of wood. Of course if you have made it from something like poplar then you are probably going to want to hide the wood!

TT: There is a perception that acoustics are harder to make than electrics- would you disagree?

MH: You can make anything difficult if you do it wrong! In both cases you need to work accurately and plan ahead. I think that 10% of any task is acquired skill and 90% is common sense. In both cases the alignment of the neck to body is very important. I have seen a lot of solids where the neck angle is just not right, with bridges routed right down into the body and I have seen acoustics with neck angles that are too shallow and the bridges are way too low. It is the same problem on a different guitar.

Some people seem to think that making the neck and truss rod are the hardest part of building an electric and bending body sides the hardest part on an acoutic. Both are pretty straightforward if you think it through and plan ahead. You also need to remember there is way more information about now than there was way back when I started and some of what you read on the internet is even quite good!

TT: Say I was thinking of starting out- what would you advice be for a complete novice?

MH: RUN! Get away while you are still sane….. But buy my book first!

Seriously, the more important thing is know what you are trying to achieve. I met someone once who wanted to be a guitar maker as it sounded like a good job. That was just cloud cuckoo land! Guitars are not complicated. There are some things that can appear complicated and some people might try and make everything look complicated to make themselves look better, but the bottom line is that it is a number of strings suspended over a means of altering their pitch and amplifying them. That is it. In a nutshell, everything else is whistles and bells. As long as the strings are supported and anchored properly, all the relevant bits line up and it is made of reasonable materials you are a long way there.

For acoustic guitars my good friend Dave King made a statement that I totally agree with (Although I would never admit that as people might think we like each other!) He said ‘If you make a guitar from good materials and put it together properly then it will sound good’ and he is right. You can spend ages reading about tap tuning and the complex interactions of various types of wood and most of it is totally irrelevant. There is no point worrying about tap tuning on a first guitar as you have absolutely no idea what you are trying to hear; you only get that with experience and in my experience, every supposedly clever – and sometimes mathematical – descriptions of the ideal guitar bracing and the interactions of various types of wood falls over at the first hurdle in that it assumes that wood is even. Any of us that have chopped trees up know that two planks from the same part of the same tree will be slightly different. For a first guitar it is better to forget all that – get into it later and even believe some of it if you want – but for a first guitar concentrate on the quality of the work, the accuracy of the joins and the alignment of everything. Even decoration and finish is less relevant, getting back to what you were saying earlier, as long as the rest of the guitar is good then that is an extra, especially on a first guitar.

For solids, it is important not to try to reinvent the wheel. Some people seem to want all the best features of several guitars on the same instrument. I love Fender Esquires and Gibson Les Paul Juniors but if you try and make one guitar that sounds exactly the same as both of them then you are going to fail and the guitar will probably bark at the postman. For solids I try to tell people to keep it simple and make it playable.

In all cases I try and tell people not to believe too much of what they read on the internet. There is a lot of rubbish about how different woods are supposed to sound and what you can and cannot use. The whole thing about certain woods sounding ‘dark’ is quite funny. What is dark? When I turn the light out the room it doesn’t sound any different! Ha! The actual wood used is relatively important, there are way more factors affecting the sound of the guitar than just the wood. Fret height, integrity of the neck join, type of truss rod, head angle and bridge type all make a huge differnece, even using different gauge strings will make a difference.

If you want to make necks then stiffness is the key so you don’t use a bendy wood like ash or elm. For bodies everyone seems to want to Honduras mahogany. I recently made some softwood guitars just for the hell of it. Douglas fir necks and cedar bodies. The fir is stiff and is fine for necks if you get a good quality bit and western red cedar makes good bodies! I have a fun guitar with a cedar body, fir neck and two TV Jones Filtertrons. That is a FUN guitar. The two neck laminates are also joined along the centre which is not the way you are supposed to do it either! I may make a guitar soon that goes against all generally accepted ideas in terms of wood used and methods employed just for the hell of it. It depends if I get time.



Resources:
-Melvyn Hiscock

TT: Thanks again for taking the time out to speak to us. Maybe before we let you go, you can tell us where to get a copy of your book and if you had anything else planned for the future?

MH: Well, Make Your Own Electric Guitar is published by NBS Publications which is, essentially, me. However, it is a real publishing company with distributors in various places. In the US and Canada the main distributor is Trafalgar Square which is part of IPG Books who are based in Chicago (http://www.trafalgarsquarebooks.com). Their customer service is very good. In the UK you can ge them direct from NBS, email sales@melvynhiscock.com or order from a bookshop. Most of the instrument supply people, like StewMac in the US, or Touchstone Tonewoods and David Dyke in the UK sell them by mail order, and if you are a business and want to stock it, drop me a line.

As for the future, I have to admit to being a bit sick of making guitars. I have done it for way too long and not only have the T-Shirt but have worn it out. There are things that interest me sometimes and I make stuff for myself but it has to be really interesting if I want to do it for someone else. I have been doing this for about 35 years and have not had any parole! I suppose I should get more into teaching or something but I have not been that impressed by some of the things I have seen being taught! Having said that I do have some things for sale at the moment.

In a few months time the long overdue Make Your Own Acoustic Guitar will be coming out, I am on the last stages of that at the moment. It is designed to cover most of what you need to know on a first acoustic. There are some very good books that are a little bit too technical in some aspects and I wanted to try to get back to basics. It is a 288 page book and in colour all the way through. I hope to get it on the shelves by late summer. Then I am going to have a rest and earn some money as being publisher and author I don’t get paid for writing it, and then I may start something else.

It would be wrong of me not to add that pre-orders on the book are being taken, just email me on the sales address.



©2009 Terence Tan.
Pictures & MP3s courtesy of Marc Beneteau
© individuals 2010

Any infringement of copyright or errors is entirely unintentional- although we try very hard not to make them. Any guitars represented remain property of their current owners. Any issues should be address to: writers@guitarbench.com. We will attempt to resolve these issues quickly.

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